Check out my pinterest boards for more info and ideas!
Basic Guitar Diagram
Changing Strings
Stringwinders speed up the changing process.
Rotate clockwise to loosen string
After unwinding, pull the string completely out of the post.
Remove bridge pin
Remove ball-end from bridge
Place the ball end of new string into pin hole
Replace bridge pin
Pull the string up, while pushing the bridge pin down. This locks the ball end into place.
Thread the top of the new string through the inside of the tuning post. You may want to wrap the string around the post once before tightening.
Tighten string counterclockwise with winder. Try to leave enough string slack to wind around the post a few times.
As you tune up, you may need to reseat the bridge pin a bit.
Humidity
There are many different types of guitar humidifiers. I use an "dampit" style humidifier, as well as 2 other sponge types that fit in my case.
The dampit types provide a good amount of immediate humidity, but be sure not to oversoak them, as they can cause water spots on your guitar's interior.
The Neck
To check your neck, place your capo on the 1st fret, then press down the low E string at the fret closest to the bridge (12, 18, 24th fret, depending on your guitar). If you can fit four sheets of paper between the string and fret at the middle of the neck, your neck bow should be ok. (See the chapter on neck adjustments in my book).
Access to my truss rod happens to be located inside the body, at the base of the neck. Other guitars have access points at the top of the neck.
A nut driver is a usually a custom-made piece that will give you access to your truss rod and enable you to adjust your neck's bow.
As you can see, it is easier to access the rod nut while the strings are off. However, you will verify the adjustment's effect only after your strings are back on.
The Bridge
Though difficult to tell here, my saddle has a few slots sanded into the front to help compensate for the strings. (see my chapter on Bridges in my book for further info).
Here is the bridge with unseated saddle.
If you need to adjust your saddle, you can easily remove it from the bridge.
To lower the saddle ( thereby improving your action), be sure to sand on the bottom (flat) side of the saddle. You will want a level surface, and likely adhesive-backed sandpaper.
The Nut
To check the action at the nut: place capo between the 3rd and 4th fret. Now, play the strings close to the nut. If your strings rattle, but emit little/no sound, it is time to adjust the nut.
2nd action check: put a capo between the 2nd and 3rd fret, looking at the space between the string and fretboard. One piece of paper should be able to fit between string and fret.
Cases
A good case snugly fits your guitar.
A hardshell case offers much better protection than gig bags or chipboard bases.